top of page
Transsilvanien, oben

Transylvania

Karte , Map Transsilvanien, Transylvania

Transylvania - Transylvania

(I use these two terms synonymously in the following. Perhaps this is wrong and you have to differentiate between them. I would be happy to hear from you.)

When I went to this area, of course, my head was full of stereotypes.

One thinks of a rather remote country where time has stood still, wild animals, bears, wolves, Carpathians - and next door Wallachia. As a young person I still thought these place names were pure fiction.

What exactly did I expect? It all started with a visit from a friend who lives on a farm in Transylvania, in one of the typical street villages where courtyard to courtyard stretches along the street, with a large gate on the outside and two buildings on the left and right that house the Enclose the inner courtyard, behind it stables and behind stables and barn there are orchards and vegetable gardens and a meadow for animals. But we not only stayed in the village, we had also planned a small round trip.

Since I am always interested in history, it was of course not possible this time either: Transylvania is halfway between the center of the former Holy Roman Empire of the German nation, namely Vienna, and the center of the former Ottoman Empire, Istanbul.

This had an impact on a number of things in Transylvania: at least the German population was mentally oriented towards the German-speaking area, while the defense was directed against the Ottomans, who often moved through the country on the way to Vienna, which they wanted to conquer, which, as is well known, they did not succeed is. But the Turks were also interested in the prosperous Eastern Province of the Kingdom of Hungary, which was so close to them.

Wealthy and German population?

Transylvania (and today's Romania) has different population groups: the largest are the Romanians and Hungarians, followed by Germans and Roma.

How did Germans get to Romania? As early as the 12th century, settlers from the Middle Rhine and the Moselle Franconian area migrated to Transylvania in search of a better life and founded settlements there, including Hermannstadt, Kronstadt, Schäßburg, Mühlbach, Klausenburg etc. and some marketplaces.

Transylvania was rich, gold, silver and salt from mines in the Carpathians and good trade from Danzig to the Crimea brought prosperity.

In the 18th century they were followed by the Danube Swabians, who emigrated downstream on the wooden boats called "Ulmer Schachteln" across the Danube to the Banat, which became Austrian in 1718, the region that is today in the far west of Transylvania with the metropolis Timisoara.

Also in the 18th century, under the reign of Maria Theresa, Vienna deported Lutheran Protestants to Transylvania in order to consolidate the Catholic faith in the multi-ethnic state of Austria. Transylvania was a very remote region in the empire and Lutherans were not allowed to return.

All German Transylvanians are Protestant. Presumably they were supposed to form a first Christian bulwark against the Turks in the east and in case of losses, from the Austro-Habsburg point of view it was only Protestants. It is questionable whether Transylvania was able to weaken the Turks. Rather, the region has always been a found victim.

The country kept growing new populations, because the constant Turkish invasions led to considerable losses of people, as entire villages were usually enslaved.

In order to defend themselves against the Turks, the Transylvanians built church castles, i.e. places of worship with defensive towers, protective walls, defensive walls, storerooms, etc., where they would retreat and defend themselves in the event of a renewed invasion and hope that the castle would stand up.

When I read about it and rummaged around, the fortified churches seemed to me like "Helms Klamm" in the film epic The Lord of the Rings.

Kirchenburgen

Fortified churches

Biserica Fortificada, Kirchburg Birthälm, Biertan

Kirchenburg bei Birthälm/Biertan

Birthälm, Biertan
Biserica Fortificada, Biertan, Kirchburg Birthälm

Wehrgang auf der Wehrmauer der Kirchenburg in Birthälm

Kirchenburg in Wurmloch/Valea Viilor​

Kirchburg Wurmloch, Valea Viilor, Biserica Fortificada
Kirchburg Wurmloch Valea Viilor

Eingang zur Kirchenburg in Wurmloch. Über der Tür ist das Fallgitter zu sehen, dass bei Angriffen heruntergelassen wurde.

Kirchenburg, Wurmloch, Transsilvanien

Das Innere der Kirche in Wurmloch

Kirchenburg in Deutsch-Weißkirch/Viscri

 Viscri, Deutsch-Weißkirch,Biserica Fortificada, Kirchburg
 Kirchenburg Deutsch-Weißkirch, Viscri, Biserica Fortificada

The fortified churches shown above are located in Biertan, Wurmloch and Deutsch-Weisskirch.

At first glance, these structures don't necessarily look like churches. Ultimately, however - as already described above - they always had the function of serving not only the practice of religion but also defense and protection.

The place Deutsch-Weisskirch is remote from the main road and can only be reached via a bad gravel road, which allowed it to keep its originality. Prince Charles of England bought some houses there and the Mihai Eminescu Trust from London is trying to preserve the village and the fortified church.

Incidentally, the plot of volume 16 of the children's book series "The Little Vampire" takes place in Deutsch-Weisskirch.

Grundriss Kirchenburg

Kirchenburg Frauendorf

Lutherzitat Lutherrose Kirchenburg Rumänien

Kronstadt and the Black Church

Schwarze Kirche, Biserica Neagra, Kronstadt, Brasov

Above in the photo you can see the Black Church in Kronstadt. Its large roof and its rather small tower protrude over the roofs of the houses at the end of the street.

This church is the largest sacred building between St. Stephen's Cathedral in Vienna and Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. It contains a collection of oriental carpets that the local Transylvanian-Saxon merchants brought back from their trade trips from Asia Minor and that they gave to the church in gratitude for good business. A considerable amount of finely crafted Anatolian carpets has accumulated over the centuries. Some of the carpets hang in the nave. It is said to be the largest collection of oriental carpets outside of the Islamic world.

Sibiu

Kronstadt, Brasov
Turmuhr Brasov, Clock Tower
Fassaden in Brasov, Kronstadt
Taufe in der deutschen, evangelischen Gemeinde, KronstadtSchwarze Kirche, Biserica Neagra, Kronstadt, Brasov
Schwarze Kirche, Biserica Neagra, Kronstadt, Brasov
Kronstadt, Brasov

Sibiu

Architecturally, Sibiu shows the influence of the former Austro-Hungarian period through baroque architectural elements such as mansard roofs or wide window reveals.

Spending an evening at the Crama Sibiul Vechi can only be recommended. The restaurant sign above refers to the restaurant, which is located in a vaulted cellar.

Piața Mică, Kleiner Platz, Hermannstadt, Sibiu
Catedrala Evanghelică C.A. Sfânta Maria Stadtpfarrkirche, Hermannstadt,
Imparatul Romanilor Hotel, Hermannstadt, Sibiu
Strada Ocnei, Hermannstadt, Sibiu
Crama Sibiul Vechi
Café Wien Hermannstadt, Brasov

Schässburg

Der Stundturm in Schäßburg ist so etwas wie das Wahrzeichen von Transsilvanien.

Stundenturm Schässburg Sighisoara
Stundenturm Schässburg Sighisoara

Man kann ihn besteigen und findet oben in der Aussichtsgalerie die Entfernungsschilder zu verschiedenen Städten, darunter auch Wien und Istanbul. Fast genau in der Mitte zwischen beiden Metropolen liegt dieser Turm, ca. 660 Kilometer in beide Richtungen. Dass diese Städte nur ca. 1300 km voneinander entfernt liegen, ist überraschend.

Sighisoara

The middle photo shows the Schulberg as seen from the hour tower.

The Josef-Haltrich-Lyzeum, the grammar school of the German minority, is located on the mountain, accessible via a wooden, covered staircase that leads up from the old town, the so-called student staircase.

DSC_0445 Kopie.JPG

In der Schule auf dem Schulberg

The hour tower in Schäßburg is something like the symbol of Transylvania.

You can climb it and find the distance signs to various cities in the viewing gallery above. Amazing - this tower is almost exactly in the middle between Vienna and Istanbul and that Vienna and Istanbul are only approx. 1300 km apart surprised me.

By the way, Schäßburg is the birthplace of Count Vlad Dracul, better known as Count Dracula. Of course there is the birthplace. You have to go through a restaurant, today's Casa Vlad Dracul, clearly located in the center in Strada Cositorarilor 5. Then you ask about the count's private rooms, after you have climbed a wooden staircase you can see darkened rooms with haunted houses on the upper floor. Find decoration. At that time there was a coffin in which one could lie for a souvenir photo. Maybe it still exists.

Schäßburg has been completely renovated, which is true for a number of cities in Transylvania. However, one has reached into the paint pots quite generously here. It's pretty colorful.

Peles Castle

Schloss Peleș, Peleș Castle
Schloss Peleș, Peleș Castle

My conclusion about Transylvania and a bit about Romania (after all, Transylvania covers about a third of the area of ​​Romania):

It was an absolutely positive surprise. Wonderful landscapes, hardly any destruction of nature. Well restored, historic cities, interesting history.

Romania's image in the media is tied to economic data, the corruption index, the workers who constantly have to fly back and forth between Romania and Germany with WizzAir in order to earn a piece of Europe's dream of prosperity in the West. People who we do not see in our wealth, who live in a parallel world below us.

A few years ago you heard all the time about children who live in sewers and intoxicate their senses with glue in order to endure life, you heard about packs of dogs that make whole streets unsafe.

You can hardly draw a more disastrous picture.

In fact, the country is very different from what this focus would lead us to believe, and those who want to hike and experience nature should try the Carpathian Mountains. Some may be frightened when things get archaic and wild, others are fascinated by that.

I would even go on a skiing holiday in the Carpathian Mountains. Simply because it's something else. On my drive from Bucharest to Transylvania, I came through the mountain holiday resort of Sinaia high in the Carpathians - a summer and winter sports resort - and felt the air of an Austro-Hungarian town with beautiful old hotel buildings, perhaps comparable to the baths in the Bohemian forest.

Heuschober, Transsilvanien
Schloss Dracula, Schloss Bran, Bran Castle, Transsilvanien
Karpaten, Transsilvanien, Carpathians, Transilvania
Transsilvanien
Rumänisch-orthodoxes Kloster, Transsilvanien, Romanian Orthodox monastry, Transilvania
Rumänisch-orthodoxes Kloster, Transsilvanien, Romanian Orthodox monastry, Transilvania
Karpaten, Transsilvanien, Carpathians, Transilvania, Romania
Gänse, Goose
Fenster, Deutsch-Weisskirch, Transsilvanien
Hühner
Rumänien, Transsilvanien
Dorfstraße, Rumänien, Transsilvanien, Romania, Village Transilvania
Famileinfotos, Rumänien, Transsilvanien
Rumänien, Transsilvanien
Familienfoto, Rumänien, Transsilvanien
bottom of page